Oaxaca, Mexico

2009-03-30T02:54:00.000-07:00

Introduction

2009-03-03T15:56:00.000-08:00

The purpose of this blog is to contain assignments for SMU-in-Oaxaca while at the same time sharing the experience with whomever asks. Its not as personal as my actual blog, but uhm - that's okay. :)

This winter break (2008-2009), I decided to take a study abroad trip to Oaxaca, Mexico. It was one of the best decisions I've made in my college career. During the trip, the professor assigned journal entries and I interviewed several people so here's where you can find them. :)

Navigation:
In the upper right hand corner, click on the kind of entries you'd like to see. I have journal assignments, interviews, photos, and videos.

FAQ:
Did you make new friends?
Yeah! I made both new SMU friends and friends in Mexico I still talk to!

Did you try the coffee?
I never thought I'd ever actually order a coffee at a restaurant, but Mexican coffee is so sweet.

What was class like?
There was no classroom! Every morning, we get in a bus and go! We'd go to ruin sites, nature hikes, natural wonders, museums, artists' houses, and more!

Did you learn Spanish?
I already knew a bit of Spanish and brushed up before the trip, but going to Mexico definitely helped me and to speak less textbook-y. And I can listen to spanish so much easier now.

Natural Oaxacan Cleansing

2009-03-02T23:19:00.000-08:00

Here's our beloved video. ;)

Tips

2009-03-01T18:45:00.000-08:00

Okay, so for anyone going on this trip, here are some tips I wish I thought about more carefully before I went.

. Keep your notes organized!
You're not going to want to take notes about everything and you aren't going to have super detailed notes or anything. You're not going to use SQ3R or Roman Numerals. But what you DO need to do it DATE all your pages of notes. Put the date and place. If you're interviewing someone, put their Name and Profession. And take at least some notes if you're at any sort of sit-down lecture. Do this and doing your journal assignments will be a breeze!

. Get a good recording mechanism.
Maybe you don't need to, but I really needed something to record stuff with. Both of my options failed. My digital camera has a video recording option, but since I didn't understand how to use it properly until the end of the trip, I missed a lot. I also bought a cheap digital voice recorder. DON'T DO THAT. If you buy a digital voice recorder, make sure you know its a good quality or just buy a regular old tape voice recorder, stating the date, place, and person with each use.

. Bring enough money and keep a budget
Because I didn't do either one. My family didn't give me as much money as some of the other people on the trip, but sometimes I found myself spending like they did. I often felt obligated to spend money on dinner because everyone else was doing it. That was really immature of me. Be careful and smart with your money! Yah, a US $ can go a long way in Mexico, but all those dollars add up.

. Pack light and Pack Smart
The lighter you pack, the better! And bring a duffel bag because you are going to buy or make stuff in Mexico and you might want to take them home with you. And when you go into the mountains, a duffle bag is easier to take from cabin to cabin than a suitcase. Bring a slouch bag or something to put your stuff in while you walk around town from day to day. I wish I brought less clothing from home, especially since I ended up buying some clothes in Mexico. Hotels give you soap and shampoo and etc. so make sure of that fact. And if you see something you like in Mexico and think "I'll get it when I go back home", I promise you, it will be 5x more expensive when you get to the US, so just buy it!

. Bring good quality stuff!
You're going to need GOOD shoes for hiking. And a hat. Sunglasses are helpful. Good sunblock. Good jacket. Good blanket. Just follow the guidelines Miss Kathy gives you. Make sure whatever you bring is good quality. You will thank yourself later.

That's all I can think of for now. :P

Natural Black Clay Face Mask

2009-03-01T11:41:00.000-08:00

This one is for VERA!!

2 Esther Moments

2009-02-13T00:24:00.000-08:00

Here are 2 Esther, the best Oaxaca tour guide, moments I was able to capture.

Our Life in Oaxaca

2009-01-30T23:45:00.000-08:00

Music Is Everywhere!

2009-01-20T22:56:00.000-08:00

Sorry... the quality on google video is TERRIBLE!

Last Journal

2009-01-16T15:33:00.000-08:00

In three weeks, we visited the Colonial city of Oaxaca, many villages in the Valley of Oaxaca, and villages in the Sierra Norte and La Canada regions. Among the numerous dramatic variations were:

Terrain/ecosystems/climate

Ethnic groups

Population density

Livelihood (urban jobs, handicrafts, agricultural, hunting and gathering, fishing, tourism, mixed)

Social stratification and wealth/poverty

Importance of family and community

Layers of history evident in remaining architecture

Civic buildings and public spaces (town halls, churches, zocalos, markets)

Evidence of the importance of religion in daily life (where was this not apparent?)

Materials used for building construction, tools, objects

Rhythm of life

Art, dance, music

Please write a long journal entry in which you compare and contrast the many places we visited, considering the variations listed above as well as others you might think of that are important. Remember the theme of our course is Oaxaca, a Sense of Place.
Woah...

Well, the first stop we arrived at was Oaxaca, the city. The city was just that. A city. This place was more confusing than any other place we went because I could never really tell who was a native and who was a tourist. The street vendedores don't count since they obviously had to be people who lived there. It was cool to experience a Mexican city because I had never seen one before. My conception of what a Mexican city looked like was totally wrong prior to this trip.

When we got up to the mountain areas, there was a drastic change in landscape and people. The first set of mountains we visited, it was easy to notice a huge change of pace. People moved slower, and a bit more passionately or deliberately. El pueblo magico just felt like I was in a land of make-believe for a day. It was so slow. So peaceful. And so pleasant. This side of the mountain was lush with greenery. I noticed the different types of rocks that made up that mountain. I didn't do any research on what its called or anything, but many part of the mountain is made up of very flat, brittle and layered rock.

The last set of mountains we went to had a drastic change in landscape from both the Oaxaca city and the other set of mountains. It was dry as could be. For miles and miles I could see green, tall cacti and everywhere I turned there was a bush of thorns. The people also seemed a bit different. I mean, at least in the city we were in, it felt more populated and more "industrialized". I guess that is to say, it felt like more people had jobs as store owners or what have you while on the other mountains, we saw more artists and traditional workers (remember that mushroom carver?). And to be honest, I liked the other mountain better. I enjoyed the interesting landscape of the La Canada area (and I am going to miss that delicious cactus fruit...), the other mountains where Capulalpam was was just more fun! And freeing. I felt like I could do anything there and I really, really loved their environmentally conscious society -- something I didn't see as much in the city or the other mountains. Also, I didn't as much religious symbols on the dry mountains. I certainly saw some on the green mountains and they were in the city of oaxaca, as well when we went into churches. Some people's houses we went had paintings or figures of the "sun and the moon" in their home. Dance, however, was present at every place we went to. From people celebrating in the zocolo, to traditional dance class in the green mountains, to the presentation of child dancers on the dry mountains.

One thing I'd like to mention is half the time we were in Oaxaca, I didn't really know where we were. I didn't know if we were south, east, west, north or what. So I can't provide so many details or draw conclusions about regions and give an opinion. But I can say that there are major differences in Oaxaca, depending on where we went. Also, its not as if we lived in certain places for a long time so I'm very biased by what we got to see and do in each place.

I feel like artistic expression in general is very prominent all over Oaxaca. IN the city, people are selling their crafts and you just cannot escape mexican music. It seems to me most of the state makes art a part of its life. Sure, in Texas we listen to music and such, but being in Mexico was the first time I'd wake up, walk outside, and hear mexican music flooding the town as if it were a morning wake up call. It also seems like Oaxacans are very proud to be Oaxacans. Mayors were thrilled to have us visit their towns. People are proud of the produce and crafts and religion.

Journal #7

2009-01-14T21:07:00.000-08:00

More of Jan. 10. Churches and Natural Health Center.
Group hugs! of Jan. 11. Trout restaurant.
More of Jan. 12. Landscape, Cacti & Children.
More of Jan. 13. Mountain Hike.
More of Jan. 14. Not Much.
Last Day Dinner.
Party night & Back home!
What did you do with your free time when we stayed in the mountain cabins of Calpulalpan? Describe the landscape setting, the stars and moon at night, and any flora and fauna you might have seen.
In the cabanas, I thought I might go mountain biking with the guys, but it was too hard. I could have done it if I really wanted to, but it was quite difficult, so I opted to stay inside with Katie and Meagan and work on our journals. It was really peaceful being all alone with the environment (there was a few hours where I was the only one on the camp awake) and it was interesting to see how long I could concentrate with out a cellphone, facebook, youtube, television, etc. (I think I lasted an hour). I listened to some music Kamelle gave to me. When everyone got back, they told us about their trip. They said it was messy and difficult, but it was one of their favourite days of the whole trip. I'm glad we got that free-day. It was definitely needed.

Although you assured me in written and in person interviews that you could easily cope with Mexican social conditions, primitive living and inelegant hotels, some of you were uncomfortable (others literally whined--yes, I heard you) when we moved into some of the cabins and the hotel in Cuicatlan. It did not seem to help that groups of European and North American travelers stay there (including doctors, lawyers, business people, museum curators, generally upper middle class and upper class people). What did the experience in humble lodging teach you about your life in North America?
Haha! I remember some people who whined. I don't think I've ever complained, but living a nice place is just a wonderful convenience that we are used to living here in Texas. We take some things for granted. Who knew having warm water to bathe in was such a luxury? Even when I stayed in Nigeria, I was at least able to boil some water to put in a bucket to take with me to the shower, haha! So it was the first time I ever ran away from the bathroom or really dreaded the thought of taking a shower. There was not enough time or space to keep all my things, so my belongings in my bag needed to be organized. I had to keep everything I needed in ideally one bag. I brought 3 not including my messenger bag! It just goes to show that we make usage of unnecessary things here in Texas.

How do the landscape and natural resources shape the sense of place in and near the biosphere, in the region of Oaxaca known as La Canada?
The landscape was definitely incredible. Even though it was very dry and uncolourful, it was very interesting to first of all be surrounded by so many cacti everywhere. I had never seen even one cactus in real life before, let alone the millions that were there. The drastic different in landscape from what we are used to really helped to put our minds in Oaxaca because the landscape is unlike anything we're used to in Texas. I don't think there are mountains of cacti and thorns in the US at all.

Long term contemplation and careful observation of the intricate patterns and cycles of nature led the ancient peoples of Oaxaca to the knowledge that allowed them to construct astronomically aligned monuments such as Structure J at Monte Alban. What did you do while we waited at the canyon’s edge for the Military Macaws to fly in to roost for the night? Did you listen to the sounds of all the other birds calling in the canyon? Did you contemplate the serenity and space of the wilderness? Or did you pass the time separated from the experience by listening to music, text messaging, or playing cards? What was your personal experience of the landscape? What did you learn about your own physical and spiritual strength and your awareness of the landscape during the long walks into and back out of the biosphere?
While we waited, I spent most of my time completely zoning out, messing with the strange grains of earth native to that part of Oaxaca. Picking flowers and scraping and uncovering rocks. From time to time, I would write notes to Andrew and I noticed people doing nothing, listening to iPods, playing cards or writing messages to each other via text or handwriting. As I was shifting around dirt, I thought about how archeologists would have to start with a big mound that may seem like there's nothing much under it, but the more they dig, the more they find. Like wise, the more I dug, the more rocks, pebbles and roots I uncovered. I also thought about the number of people who had been on the same trail, waiting for macaws.

What are the most important characteristics of Oaxacan people and life in Oaxaca that you believe are important to share with others? How do these compare to key characteristics of life at home in the USA?
Something very important I noticed in Oaxaca was that life was much slower pace than in the US. Not everyone has internet or cellphones or club meetings or business meetings. Life is just much slower, and so I feel like since life is slower, the people have time to fully express themselves which includes identifying and displaying their priorities in life. Because of this, everyone we've met has seemed much more at peace, content, and genuinely good in comparison to people you might meet in the US. The people in Oaxaca just seem to understand their character better. One very good example was when I met Jacobo, the artist. He hugged and kissed me and talked to me about his art work. He was very proud to display his family and their craft. His priorities in life are very obvious: art and family. I believe having well defined priorities and the time to show your pride in them also leads to having time to express who you are, your character and your personality better. In the US, sometimes people seem like robots. You can't tell what kind of personality they have by looking at them. You can't tell what they cherish most if you enter their home. Its so hard for people to slow down and actually wait for a response when they ask "How are you doing?" as they zip by. Of course, not all people in the USA are like this and likewise, maybe not all people in Oaxaca are as I described, but you can very much get a sense of these things when you're in both places.

All of you were regular and active participants in the hands-on workshops and school interactions. What did you enjoy about and learn from these experiences? Did you feel you had a good relationship with your artist teachers in spite of the language barrier?
I enjoyed getting to see and feel and do what these people have been doing all of their life. Like when we met the women who worked with red clay. It was so hard for us to do, but that is what the women did everyday all of their life so they got a lot of practice. Being able to do the work of the people made the experience so much more educational and unforgettable. I felt a very good relationship with all of our teachers because they were open, happy, and excited to show us how to do the activities. I especially like Jacobo because I had a one on one interview with him. Since no one else interviewed him, the relationship felt stronger.

During our last discussion, I asked you to share which Oaxacan place/landscape, person, and/or memory were your favorites, and to explain why. Please revisit these questions in your journal. It is OK if they have changed since our discussion.

I picked 2 people for who I will never forget, but I didn't know we could also pick items and places. The first person I will never forget is Esther because she really brought the history to life. She reminds me of una tia mia because they are both so expressive when they speak. She's so funny and she is a great tour guide, taking us and telling us about things we never would have even known about otherwise. I will never forget Jacobo Angeles for reasons I mentioned earlier. He is incredibly sweet, open and passionate. I've never met so many artists before and meeting him and talking to him one on one was a real pleasure. I will never forget el pueblo magico because it really felt like magic! The best part was the children on the Mirambas. They were so precious, dedicated, and talented! I was very impressed that they went there without teacher supervision. I was impressed that their families allowed them to go (and even if their mom MADE them go) knowing that there probably wouldn't be a teacher there. How amazing is that? I mean, in America, it is so hard to get a group of kids to be passionate enough about something to seek others who do it and maintain a regular schedule with each other. Even when I would play soccer, all the girls loved soccer, but we needed a coach to make us come to practice! And then the fact that their families let them go without supervision is amazing because you know that couldn't happen in the US. Parents would be afraid of their kids getting kidnapped or the class room having disorder or whatever else parents worry about. I also will not forget the girl who was always singing her heart out with an accordion on the way to the zocalo. Wouldn't it be funny if she was "discovered" and got to make her own album? Her family would be happy for years.

What did it mean to you to meet Oaxacan people who often live without many material goods, health care, education, or opportunity? What impact do you think you may have had on the lives of people we met in the various communities we visited? How does all of this affect your own sense of place in the world? Have these experiences brought about a shift or transformation of your world view (it may be too early to know)? How are you changed? Why? If not, why not?
It meant a lot to me to meet those Oaxacan people because it allowed us to get a feel for what life for people in Oaxaca was like. We got to see ways of life that we've never known existed before. They really taught me to take my life slower and to focus on what I care about the most and show people that I care about them, as well. I am not sure what kind of impact we might have made on all of the people. I know we probably made an impact on the lives of the children we got to be more intimate with because we were talking about our lives in all the different places and I'm sure all the kids that we gave gifts to will not forget us. I don't know how often some of the other families get visitors from the US, but I don't feel like we had a strong enough connection with some of them that we had made much of an impact on their lives. Some places we went, the people felt very proud that people were coming to see their town and that probably just gave them a greater sense of pride in where their living and the initiatives they are making (especially in those environmentally-cautious towns). It affected my sense of the world greatly. When I came back to SMU, I had a totally different mind-set. I felt like I was more open to the way the world moved and I wasn't confined by the bubble of SMU or thinking that I could just stay in Dallas or even the US. Of course, the prospect of moving when I graduated has crossed my mind, but it always seemed like it would be a big ordeal or something almost unthinkable. Just a fantasy, but I feel like the world is open to roam in now. I feel like I have a better understanding of people which makes me less scared to interact with them. Before the trip, I used to be scared to say hi to some people. Since I feel so much more open to the world and my environment now, I don't feel so concerned about things that used to concern me at SMU. I'm not concerned about going to every meeting or every party or whatever else I'd think about. I think the fact that I was in a foreign country free to make a lot of my own decisions and met so many people who live a passionate life (because they believe in what they're doing) is what helped to give me a new perspective of the world. I have a greater appreciation for my education, as well. Even though many people like to complain about education and some people blame our current educational system for short-comings of some people, it is still something very important to the advancement of any society and it is envied all over the world.

We arranged for a high ranking environmental biologist to present a slide lecture to prepare us for our long hike through several distinctly different ecological zones in the biosphere near Cuicatlan (where we saw the Military Macaws). What were five of the important reasons (covered in the biologist’s lecture) for protecting the flora and fauna in the biosphere? What were five of the important benefits to communities near the biosphere as a result of this project (covered in the biologist’s lecture)?
Water is the most important thing for this region and the most important thing for the world because water is necessary for any type of life. For an area as environmentally conscious and self-sufficient as this one, perservation of clean water would be of utmost importance. The palm plant, the basis of the area's economy because it provides sales and jobs for local residents, is protected by Flora and Fuana. McCaws and their habitat are protected here as they are a trademark symbol of the region, and cacti are protected because they are vital for food and shelter of animals in the biosphere.

After you returned to the USA, what was the response of the family members and friends to whom you described your experiences on the Oaxaca program in general and in the service learning activities in particular (giving of donated school supplies, and interviews with local people)? How has your perception of your Oaxaca experience changed in the short time since you returned home? What do you miss the most about Oaxaca?
My dad picked me up and gave me a hug. He asked me about some things that I learned and saw. I told him about how the city seems small and when we leave the city, it begins to look a little like Nigeria in some places. My mom didn't say much. She asked "Have you changed?". My parents were also talking about how they were worried about all the rallies and social unrest in Oaxaca. I haven't gone into a lot of detail with many of my friends. I tend to be the kind of person who doesn't talk a lot about herself or her experiences unless directly asked. I told a few friends about funny stories and some people we met. In general I would say that it was an "amazing opportunity and was an extremely important part of my college experience." I feel now that your college experience just isn't complete without studying abroad. Some people say "That's cool" and have an expression like my family had. Sort of a "I'm glad you did that. Let's move on with life." and some people seem really excited about it like "Wow! That's so cool you did that! I want to know a little more." Looking back on the trip, I feel like I could have taken a few more risks with the people I talked to and my classmates (risks in regards to what I said/asked and how much I talked to them and what I did with them) to really get to know them, but that kind of stuff is scary. I think Kamelle and Andrew took care of a lot of risks for me and I got in on it afterwards, so in general, I'm happy with all I did. I'm not as super excited about the trip as I was at first, but I still really love it. I don't feel the amazing feelings I did at the time, but I can still remember that it was amazing and still describe it as such especially since it taught me a good lesson of learning to calm down and take pride in work. What do I miss the most about Oaxaca? First of all, I totally miss the cafe. I miss the breakfasts (they cook eggs "ala mexicana" the way nigerian women do and its so delicious! and breakfast in general was delicious!)! I will miss their breakfasts so much. I don't I miss the fact that I ate like a bottomless pit. For whatever reason, I can't eat so much in America, but in Mexico, my stomach expanded or something. I'm glad it didn't transfer because I would be fat eating American foods like that! I miss finding a new surprise around every corner. I miss Esther. I miss the shopping. I miss meeting interesting people. I miss the cheap prices. I miss my classmates. The only one I see is Kamelle and that's just because we've been running into each other ALREADY but didn't really know each other. Our group grew really intimate in a way that is really hard to recreate in other situations. I miss Jacobo because I wish I talked to him more. I miss that one cactus fruit so much!

Journal #6

2009-01-06T19:55:00.000-08:00

Photos of La Calenda. Wise Men have arrived.

More Photos of Jan. 7th.
More Photos of Jan. 8th.
More Photos of Jan. 9th.
More Photos of Jan. 10th.

Describe your experiences making the paper mache puppets and faroles for our calenda. Then, describe the group experience (not just your personal experience) participating in the calenda on the night of January 6th, the day of the Three Kings.

Making the puppets was fun. I especially liked painting the face and being creative with the make-up and eyes. It was very cool to see the process of making a giant puppet. You have to stuff the body parts and sew the large clothings. When we got to the park to get ready for the calenda, we were all really excited because a radio host came to interview Esther and Prof. Kathy. I was one of the costumed dancers, so I don't think I got to feel the energy of the rest of the group because I had to dance in front with T-bone and some other dancers, but I think the general con census was that it was a WONDERFUL experience (but we got tired of taking all those photos)!

On this day (Jan. 7) we moved to Ixtlan de Juarez in the Sierra Norte. We visited the Shoo Betoo trout farm, an effort begun by a group of elders for the benefit of their community. After dinner at the cabanas, the director of EcoIxtlan presented a slide talk on another community project with economic and environmental endeavors. Explain these two projects, the reasons why they are important, and how they relate to the way people work in the USA. What projects in your home city are envisioned and managed for the benefit of the entire community?
The first place we went to in Ixtland was Shoo Betoo (yes, that is Zapotec!) trout farm. It was started by elders to cultivate their own fish to eat and sell. They went through a lot of struggle to get the operation going. Their fish died several times, but now, they've paid off at least 50% of their loan. It just goes to show how incredibly persistent these people are. Then, after our dinner in the cabanas, the director of EcoIxtlan spoke to us. He told us about how preserving the environment in Ixtlan is a full community effort. Its important that the whole community is educated about the environment because their natural resource is their most important resource they've got. In the US, there are organizations that try to care for the earth or human rights that is nation wide. There are even some local organizations and student run organizations. The difference is, our community is not educated about their efforts and the community is not caring. Its like the organization is fighting against the citizens instead of working with them.

What did the sculpture on top of Cuachirindoo Mountain represent?
The sculpture represents the two zapotec natives who protected the land of Ixtlan from the Aztecs.

Describe our hike and the town of Ixtlan de Juarez, including the Church of Santo Tomas, which was built in the 1600s and is filled with Baroque altarpieces.
The hike was really beautiful and took a lot less time than I thought. When we got to the church, looking up, I could not believe I walked from all the way up there! I felt very close to nature and the past, trudging from the top of the mountain to the people in the town. The church of Santo Tomas was decorated nicely for the holidays. The decorating ribbons were made from real corn husks. Many of the beautiful original paintings and sculptures have been restored and look very clear. The set up looked like most of the other churches with a choir loft with a window to shine light on the alter and a recreation of their patron saint in what looks like a clear coffin. I noticed that the coffins seem really small as if someone of average height in America wouldn't be able to fit.

We were guests in the home of one of the oldest couples in Ixtlan de Juarez. They introduced us to simple phrases in the Zapotec language, showed us their family photos and altar, and shared stories of their lives and their town with us. Explain this. Also, explain briefly how the Zapotec language differs from Spanish.
What I found interesting about the old couple is that even though they were teachers of the zapotec language, they always returned back to speaking to each other in Spanish. They also could not get their children to learn any Zapotec. I understand that sometimes, children get in trouble for speaking a language that the authorities do not want to hear (in America, some schools punish children for speaking in Spanish) and sometimes parents refrain from teaching their children the language for fear of discrimination, but it just sounded like the children had no interest in zapotec and on top of that, the school was discouraging it. Its amazing they have so many children and grand children and great grand children. I wonder why the whole wall wasn't full of their faces. Zapotec is very different than Spanish. It doesn't seem like they have any similar root words and the noises are not even the same. Its like comparing an apple to rice. The only thing they have in common is a roman alphabet.

We were invited to hear a children’s band so we would learn that a local man is not only teaching children regional and Mexican music on their instruments, but also music theory and how to read musical notation. Later, we had a class in traditional dancing of the region with a dance instructor who normally teaches local youth. Why are these two initiatives important to the community of Ixtlan?
They are very important because it helps to continue the tradition and Ixtlan is a town that relies heavily and cares a lot about tradition and arts of the past.

Compare Universidad de a Sierra Juarez to SMU.
One thing I noticed was that the students behaved more like American middle school or highschool students than American university students. They have different personalities. But then again, when I was in highschool, I saw a huge difference between my very advanced IB class with only 1 mexican and my regulars, basic class with 70% mezticans (that's what my school statistics say. According to the statistics, my school was 75% hispanics). The university students had the same youthful behaviour and I saw them grouping together a lot. American students gropu together, too, but not as much as these guys. in my classes, people usually do not know each other and they do not become friends with each other like they're doing in this university (but this university is a lot smaller than SMU, anyway). A few of the students looked older and one asked a very impressive question. My favourite part was when we tossed the ball back and forth to learn more about each other. And I enjoyed going into different classrooms to see what they looked like and what their classes are like and who goes to class.

How does the community of Calpulalpan (Calpulalpam) compare to Ixtlan?
The two towns are very similar, but I think like Calpulalpan better because the city looks better and it is un pueblo magico, meaning there is an extra little something in the air of this town. The children playing the marimbas on their own was just too sweet and the herbal medicine just made the town seem a lot more homey than Ixtlan. You could feel the community a little better.

What did you learn in the workshop/s on the first day in Calpulalpan?
The first workshop we did was an introduction to the city. I learned a lot from the president of the community council. The most important thing is that the town is a commune. I don't know if I can describe it as communism, but the community owns the land. People do not get paid for the services to the town. The money that's paid to someone is distributed among the community. There's just absolutely no thinking of one's self here. At age 16, people will begin working for the community in the lowest ranks so they can gain experience for when they're older. And all votes are not anonymous. They're vocal.

Red Clay Momma

2009-01-05T20:46:00.000-08:00

Matril Martinez and her mother (I probably spelt it wrong)
of Teopazola, Jan. 5

What do you use Red Clay for?
It can be used for cooking or baking, inside or outside.

How did you learn how to do this?
My mother taught me how to do traditional pieces.

Do you ever use molds?
We have never used molds for 35 years.

Don't your knees hurt?
They do at first, but with practice, its nothing.

What styles did they do a long time ago?
Back in the day, they only did traditional styles.

... much more!

Interview with Black Clay Potter Family

2009-01-04T20:24:00.000-08:00

Black Clay Family
Jan. 4th, Coyotepec

What do the kids do?
2 of the kids are in college and another in high school, so they make pots in their spare time.

What is your regular job?
I work as an administrator, but still make time to keep ancestry pottery.

What other styles do you know?
I know Japanese pottery.

Why don't you have a machine to shine the pots?
There is no machine that can do it.

Is this the only way to polish the pot?
There are different tools you can use.

Journal #5

2009-01-04T18:49:00.000-08:00

Photos of Artwork and a great day!
Photos of Yagul and riding in the back of truck.
On January 3rd, we visited the regional museum next to the Church of San Pedro y San Pablo in Teposcolula (the 2nd church we visited, the one with the open air chapel). The museum opened four months ago and houses artifacts from excavations on the nearby mountain where there were many towns inhabited by the Mixtecs when the Spaniards arrived there in the 1520s. The mountain towns overlooked a lake in the valley below. The Spaniards drained the lake, built the church there, and forced the Mixtec people to move down into the valley to farm.
On January 4th, we visited the regional folk art museum in San Bartólo Coyotepec, the town known for the black clay pottery produced in this area for over 2,000 years. Like the museum in Teposcolula, this is a regional museum. Such museums generally explain the history of the people, their lifestyles, art (and sometimes music and dance) traditions. They are often funded by or led by successful artists from the region. Which objects and displays interested you the most in these two regional museums, and why? How do these museums compare to the ones discussed in Oaxaca at the Crossroads?
There was one piece that really stuck out to me. I forgot the name of it exactly. Something like "beating heart". It really stood out to me because there was a lot of detail in the work and the concept of the art is very touching. It shows a kind of connectedness our emotions have to nature. How we can be affected by it and how nature is affected by us. It just struck me as a theme that is innate within the minds of people living in Oaxaca.

Yagul was an independent city-state six miles from Mitla, occupied from about 100 to 1200 CE. The architectural remains are primarily palatial and administrative structures with patios, and tombs. The ballcourt at Yagul is the second largest in Mesoamerica (the largest is at the Maya city of Chichen Itza in the Yucatan). How does the site and plan of ancient Yagul compare to the site and plan of Mitla? If you were a Mixtec ruler, which site would you choose to build your city?
Oh my gosh, I really loved Yagul better than Mitla. I said at some point that Mitla was one of my favourite parts of the trip just because the buildings were big and it was my first time to really get a grip on what life was like for native back then, but Yagul is a great site for those who've done some prior research and already been to Mitla and Monte Alban. Its still "under construction". That is, they're still digging it up and its noticeable that they are, but at the same time, you can see more details. We saw god figures that seemed very clear and distinct unlike the other sites we've been to where the gods seemed to be erasing away if we were lucky enough to even still see them there. Yagul had a good defense plan, I think. There were some easy steps (we took the hard, long way up) to get to the top of a hill that could see all of Yagul and you could hear people from the top of the hill. I cannot objectively say which plan was better (Yagul vs. Mitla) because I do not fully understand how they lived their life to the point that I could say what kind of things the societies needed the most. I would choose either site if I was a ruler. I don't know enough about the details of how war worked, how the government worked, how the religion worked, how trade/money worked, etc. to give a good answer.

At the red clay pottery workshop, what did the 87 year old grandmother tell us about her life in Tamulzapan?

It was interesting how she continued talking for so long. It indicates that she isn't asked about by visitors very often. Even before she began speaking, her daughter told us how much the mother would like to conversate and answer questions, but since she doesn't know english or spanish, it is very hard. She probably loved this opportunity to share her life with others. She told us about how when she was younger, everyone only made traditional designs on the red clay pots and she has always made large pots which are great for wedings to make otola. All the houses were made of reeds and tortillas were made by hand rather than by press. She used to trade her pieces for food because she and her husband were so poor. To live in this modern time feels like heaven to her. She also told us the sun never felt so hot in the past. That's really interesting!

STUDENT CREATED QUESTIONS
How did today's mass differ from yours?
The mass was very similar to my own mass because I am a catholic. The placement of the holy water was a little different. It was also interesting to go to mass in an old chapel in a different language. But it was so like back home. Some people were well dressed and some people were dressed normally. Right after mass, the kids got on their cellphones. It felt normal to me.

Compare workshop families
All the workshop families are similar in that they practice their art as a part of their tradition and history in an attempt to make sure it lives on. Some of the families are very modern, with children going to colleges studying computers and practicing law while some families live very simple lives and still speak in Zapotec.

Compare US puppets to Mexican
In America when I think of puppets, I think of many different types of puppets. Hand puppets, sock puppets and puppets on strings -- all small. In Mexico, puppets are HUGE and they operate with someone's whole body, not just their hands.

Interview with Gladis

2009-01-03T19:29:00.000-08:00

Jan. 3rd.
Gladis of Cuilapan.

Gladis is a highschool student in Oaxaca, Mexico.

Q: How old are you?
A: 18

Q: How many classes do you take?
A: 8

Q: Which ones?
A: Math, English, Spanish, Geography

Q: Will you go to university?
A: In July

Q: Do you make good grades?
A: Yeah

Q: Are there cute guys here?
A: They're too young

Q: Do you have a boyfriend?
A: Yes

... and haha, a few more.

Interview with Backstrap Weavers

2009-01-02T23:27:00.000-08:00

Jan. 2
Backstrap Weavers of Santo Tomas Jalietza

Journal #4

2009-01-02T13:07:00.000-08:00

Photos of Jan. 2nd.
Churches & High-schoolers.
What is the relationship between the site of the former monastery and church of Cuilapan and the site of Monte Alban? What existed on this site prior to the construction of the church? What are some of the noteworthy features of this church? Based on your reading of Parts I and II of The Colonial Art of Mexico, would you say this is a typical monastery plan?
Cuilapan is close to Monte Alban. Monte Alban was a very important place spiritually for the zapotec and mixtec, so the fact that Cuilapan has a church and Monte Alban was left untouched means that the conquistadors did not find Monte Alban. The church is an open-air church which is indicitive of the times. The natives were relunctant to the changes, especially if they were indoors, so some churches were open air to make things easier and they could hold more people. The church was never finished, though. It has all the typical things of a church in this area. The arcs, the alter, the little place where the priest lectured (back then). I did notice that this church has more Moroccan styles on the doors than some of the other churches.

What was your experience with the backstrap loom weavers in the Crespina family of Santo Tomas Jalieza? If you conducted an interview, what did you learn about the way they live and the place in which they live? How does weaving on a backstrap loom compare to weaving on the large floor loom Fidel Cruz uses to make rugs in Teotitlan del Valle?
It was a really great experience because we got to try some backstrap looming, ourselves. Then, when we interviewed the mother who served us a special drink. I forgot what its called. It seemed like it was supposed to be "chocolate" but was think, chalky, and didn't mix in well with the water. She told us that they drink it in the middle of the day to give themselves more strength. In their home, they live very simply and all work together to take care of chores which are self-assigned by everyone in the family. Backstrap looming is similar to floor looming in that they must shift the threads each time they pass the loom through the threads, but other than that, they are very different. Backstrap looming requires a lot of physical getting used to... your body has to get used to sitting in that position. Also, the artworks they can make are much smaller than what Fidel Cruz is able to make on his floor loom, but at the same time, the backstrap loomers can make artworks with even more details.

The traditional folks dances from the eight main regions of Oaxaca, performed at the Guelaguetza in the Camino Real, introduced us first to religious ritual dances and later to secular dances. How do the body positions and movements in the religious dances compare to those of the secular dances? What three characteristics of traditional Oaxacan dance would you consider most important to explain to an outsider in order to help them understand this art form?
Wow! There were some major differences between the religious dances and the secular dances. In the religious dances, there are no hand movements, only footwork. The footwork is more like shuffling and the women are always looking down while the men for the most part keep their hands behind their backs. There is no physical contact between the men and the women and everyone wears comfortable, flat shoes. Its very conservative, even in the colours of the clothing. The secular dances on the other hand are so much more lively and vibrant. The men and women are smiling, twirling, etc, etc. Its what you think of when you think of Mexican dance. :) I think an outsider watching the religious dance would be put off by the lack of facial expression, movement, and tempo. You would probably have to explain to them that the dance wasn't for enjoyment. It was purely for religious reasons.

Describe the churches and open air chapels visited on the Dominican route. Include the overall plans, façades, open air chapels, open air altars, sculptural decorations, and altar pieces if they still exist. Is this type of church design inviting to you?
The open air churches were very large. And things that usually would not be that big or noticeable were enlarged such as the entrance bowl for the holy water. They have the usual structure of a chapel with the alter in front and the rows of pews and etc. However, the sides of the chapel are open as if anyone or anything can walk in. There was one church we went to that had a separate open-air section where they used to perform mass so that it could be seen, even from far distance. The open-air church is not inviting to me because I have a different view of how to practice religion. I like the idea of being inside a very decorated, closed building because it makes everything that goes on there feel more sacred and separate from the dirty world outside the walls.

The churches were open air because it was hard to get the natives to accept a new religion. If the chapel was left open, they could come in and out as they pleased or even watch mass from far away. It would be inviting to me only because I would be able to see what was going on at a distance and gain some curiosity to go closer.

What was your experience with the Mixteco children? What did you learn about their lives and their connection to the place in which they live?
I had a great time with the kids. They were around my age, or atleast the ones I talked to were. They were graduating soon this summer and planned on going to a university. They are not that different than kids at my own highschool except for the fact that they seem to really want to learn while kids in my high school do not care as much. These kids have to walk to school and some must travel for over an hour everyday for school. They like the same things we like and make friends the same way and have boyfriends and they even know American artists such as Beyonce. I learned that some of them walk by foot to school and some take the bus. Some travel over an hour to get to school, which shows a lot of dedication to education. The kids are very connected to where they live because everytime I ask them what they might want to do after school, they always want to apply the lessons they learned in school to benefitting their homes. They don't want to move to the United States or go to Mexico City. They just want to stay where they've grown up and make it a better place.

Interview with Weavers

2009-01-01T20:47:00.000-08:00

Jan. 1
Weavers of Teotitlán del Valle

What natural dies have you and your family discovered on your own?

We have discovered two dies; one from chamomile to make yellowish-browns and another from Brazilian wood for bright orange colors.

How many hours a day do you all work?

From 4am to 9pm while trading on off to help cook, clean, sell and other chores.

Do you use the tedious wool to thread processing for chastisement for your children as it was done in your day?

Absolutely!

Who gathers the different natural ingredients for the dyes?

The whole family goes out to gather, especially for the most difficult to obtain things like Mossgose.

What foreign materials do you import?

We consistently import cashmere and wool.

Journal #3

2009-01-01T00:28:00.000-08:00

Monte Alban. New Years Eve.
New Years Day.
The four cardinal directions (cardinal points—north, south, east west) are brought up often in the readings and during our field trips as important conceptually in Oaxaca since the ancient past (examples in ritual, architectural layout, symbolism in religious texts and on all kinds of art and architecture). Identify and explain at least two of the examples we have encountered so far.
The first example we encountered was at Mitla, I think. This is where we first saw the usage of squares in architecture of the courtyards, representing the four directions. It was especially important because Mitla was a religious place. Also, in some of the designs on the wall, we often found many crosses which did not represent the christian cross, but represented the four directions. The second place we encountered the four directions was in Monte Alban which was also partially a religious place. The ceremonial square (which was shaped in a square for the religious reasons) had a platform for players of the ball game to stand on.

In terms of date, cultural, physical location of the site (the landscape setting), building types, building functions, and people who were once in residence, how does Monte Alban compare/contrast to Mitla?
Monte Alban is more of a relaxed place in comparison to Mitla, in my opinion. Mitla seems to have always been a religious place. It was designed for worship, the priests lived there, there were special rooms for special ceremonies, only the most worthy of people were buried there, etc. However, Monte Alban was first created as a tactical war strategy. At some point it was a religious place. At some other point it was just a common place. Etc, etc. I'm not sure how much Monte Alban has changed over the ages and what EXACTLY people did during each era (the book seems a bit unclear but has general ideas), but it doesn't seem as holy as Mitla was. Monte Alban seems like a "for general use" place to me.
Mitla: Only preists lived there, buildings were used for religious purposes, all buildings had square pyramids and square lobby. Found by the conquistadors and parts taken to build Catholic structures.
Monte Alban: The type of people who lived there varied, but usually noblemen and preists. The buildings were square pyramids, but did not always have a lobby or grave infront of them. Structure J has the most peculiar shape because it was used to watch the stars. It also had a ball court. It was never found by the conquistadors.
Both: They were both used for religious reasons and housed the most respected people of society. They both used pyramids.
How would you describe the Tule Tree, and what it felt like to see it, to someone else? Relate your experience of the Tule Tree to the Mesoamerican concept of the World Tree or axis mundi.
The axis mundi or the world tree is a point or a tree where all the cardinal directions meet and those on higher planes can communicate with those on lower planes. The Tule Tree was seen as a world tree to mesoamericans because of its huge size, its many images in the trunk, the large roots digging deep into the ground and water, and the many branches reaching up into the sky. The Tule Tree looks like a good example of the conception of the World Tree.

What was your personal experience of the site of Monte Alban?
Monte Alban was exhausting. I didn't realize how big it was and it was so tough to climb those pyramids in the heat. I guess those Zapotecs were in really good shape. It was so cool to see the carvings and temples in real life. When you look at them in books, you just think "Okay? That's cool, but I don't really care." but seeing them in person makes you realize its real. Its not just some thing teachers are forcing you to learn. It really happened. It used to be something in present time. I still don't fully understand everything such as what they would do on a daily basis in Monte Alban or how exactly they moved stones or cut stones. How many people did it. Where did they do it? Ect.

How was the New Year’s Eve celebration in the historic center of Oaxaca meaningful to you and how does it differ from the way you celebrate at home?
This was the best new years I've ever had. I noticed that a lot of restaurants are either closed or extremely reserved. No one is inside a public building before Jan. 1st. They're either at home or having fun in the Zocalo. Once midnight strikes, that's when people will start eating or going out to party. As it gets later and later, the fuller buildings will become. We were at a bar at 11:50. No one was there. By 6 am, it was jam packed full. In America, I tend to think people will have a party at a family's house or go to a big party. I don't think shops close early on New years eve. I doubt that people would wait until 5 in the morning to party. And I noticed my classmates were confused. So I think new years here is very different Especially when we noticed all day Jan. 1st, people were celebrating more than they were at the time we would celebrate in America. The real day of celebration is Jan. 1st (because no one begins to party or anything BEFORE 12 am) and it lasts all day, where as in America, we party just on Dec. 31st at night and a bit into the morning Jan. 1st.

What did you learn in the weaving workshop in Teotitlan del Valle? Explain at length with examples.
I learned that the times are changing. That was the biggest lesson I learned. Back when the father and mother got married, they were as young as 17. When I asked if their son could do the same, they said no because he has to go to school. The boy also said that he wants to do other things in addition to weaving where as the mother and father would only think of weaving for their life. Its just a huge sign of the changing times. I also learned about an initiate meaning of the sun and the moon. Esther pointed out how the wife never said that she did anything. She'd always say she "helped [her husband] to do it." This was because their marriage relationship is symbolic of the sun and the moon. The sun shines brightly and brings things to life and it is because of the sun that the moon can shine as brightly.

While the New Year’s Eve celebration in the zocalo of Oaxaca was purely secular (though in front of the cathedral), the New Year festivities on the hillside above Teotitlan del Valle were an example of religious syncretism (a blend of ancient prehispanic beliefs and religious rites with those of Catholicism). Things to know: incense and fireworks are offerings to god (deities) as they send prayers and thanks to the heavenly realm. Indigenous peoples consider fireworks to be like flowers of light in the sky, and flowers have long been offered to deities during all religious fiestas. In ancient Mesoamerican religions, the earth was thought of as the mother (for the Aztecs, the mother of the sun, moon, and stars), and the source of life (birth, human and agricultural fertility, rain). We witnessed people leaving offerings of candles, incense, flowers, and money at a small altar where they prayed; then, more offerings and prayers at a second shrine altar close to the rock-chipping site; then, removing rock from the earth for good luck in the coming year (concept of cycles of time). They created images representing petitions made of earth placed on the earth. Offerings of fire (flowers of light) were sent to the sky from the centers of our images. Finally, we witnessed some of the fireworks offered by the local people, including the dancing bull and dancing figures. Please write about this experience and what it meant to you.
The fireworks was a great experience. I've never seen so many fires and loud noises in my life. When I was there, I thought it was just for fun, but I noticed the religious element when we had to pray in the tiny "cave". I saw it as thanking God for a new year in a new way. I loved experiencing new years in a way I never even thought of before. It was fun to recreate my dreams and goals in dirt for the new year. This experience was just another example of how the natives tried to hold on to their religion even when the conquistadors were trying to push Catholicism.

Explain the design of Structure J. What are the three key astronomical alignments of Structure J at Monte Alban (the arrow point aligns with one, the stairway center aligns with one, the stairway aligns with one)? Why would marking and ritually honoring such events in the sky have been important to the priests and nobility of Monte Alban?
Structure J has a pentagon shape, something very different than the 4 sided structures that surrounded it. Structure J seems to be a very religious building because its weird shape and structure is accounted for by the things they are aligned with. The staircase points to the Northeast. Different angles on the structure point to different stars that appear over the horizon; the most important is the cross. This is why the building is seen as important. It allows for preists to keep track of the star movement which predicts things for the people.

What was your personal experience at Monte Alban?
It was another interesting experience. I tried hard to imagine the life of people back in that time. It was a tiring day trip because Monte Alban is very big and there is no shade in sight! The designs on the walls, Los Danzantes, and the astoco are things I'm so glad i saw first hand. It is very hard to capture these things and understand them through just photos. And I never understood the amount of stair climbing these people had to do. At least from what I experienced in the ruins, it seems like people are going up and down strange stairsteps all the time. Also, by looking at the buildings, door ways, and steps, I feel like the people who lived there are smaller than the people who live in our world today.

Journal #2

2008-12-30T21:32:00.000-08:00

Photos of Day 4 (petrified waterfall).
How would you describe the landscape around Hierve El Agua and the atmosphere of the place created by visitors there?
The landscape was very, very rocky, but natural. The sky was crisp and blue. As we walked out near the water, it seemed as if we were on a high cliff, it very isolated. When we walked around the hierve el agua and saw where the water had been petrified, I felt like I was in the pages of a national geographic kid book. I was look, feeling, and experiencing something I had only been able to imagine through small 100x100 pixeled pictures on either the internet or a textbook for class. Something added as an "interesting fact". I never would have been able to guess what the landscape was like from looking at those small pictures. It was rocky, dirty, prickly, and a bit scary, but the fruit of our climbing labour was worth it. In the distance were more mountain tops, cacti, and other exotic plants. The visitors were very calm and happy, making the place seem like a get-away paradise!

What was your first impression of the sacred city of Mitla (600-1000 CE)?
At first, I felt like I was in a history book. It was strange to actually be walking on ancient history! Something I only am forced to read about or google upon random curiosity, I was walking on. So I tried my best to envision the place as it was when it was in its present day. It was very difficult to do. But my first impression was "Wow, I'm walking on a live history book...". I thought it was amazing how geometrical and symmetrical everything was. Its hard to imagine how they did it and apparently it is difficult to answer because no one ever tells you much of the details of how they did their work and when you ask someone, they give a vague answer. I didn't feel any religious awe or anything since I cannot relate to the place. I just had a sense of wonder from stepping many centuries back in history.

How would you describe the craftsmanship and patterns of the stonework?
The stone work was very precise because each block fit perfectly without the use of mortar to hold it. It probably required a lot of trial and error at first because it took them a while to figure out how to keep buildings standing while remaining in an earth-quake prone area. The patterns are very symmetrical and angular. Right angles and the number four were important for this society. The craftmanship of the patterns is impressive because each piece fit exactly. Sometimes, I'd look at the pieces up close and notice cracks or small, tiny pockets of air and thenI realized that those are only there because the piece is incredibly old. There are some pieces that seem perfectly fit and I can only wonder how in the world did they get things to be so clean and precise. I worked on a Habitat for Humanity site and nothing we did there would ever measure up to the precion at Mitla. "Oh, the block is too big? Okay, take off like... an inch more! Yeah, its a little too short, but we can live with that. Let's go." And jee, how many people were working on this that they were able to get it up? I wonder what their poplation was like?

The movement of the sun across the sky causes the pattern of light and shadows to shift continually across the surface of the buildings at Mitla. How does this affect the visual qualities of the patterned stonework?

I guess the shadows made the shapes stand out more and look different depending on the time of day. I personally think when the sun is lower and there are more shadows, the quality of the patterns are better because there is a new dimension added by the shadows. When the patterns would seem to move due to lighting, it would make the stone come to life. If some people had walked around with torches, the walls would seem alive.

Describe the layout of the ancient administrative and palace complexes we visited in Mitla. You can refer to a map of the site and the course readings, if necessary.
Every place was made in a square shape because it had four sides. Four was the magic number for those in the Mitla because it represented North, South, East, and West. There were many columns used to support the structures and their roofs.

Who lived in these buildings at Mitla?
The priests lived in those buildings. Mitla belong to the Great Seer and he kept his court at Mitla. Mitla was a religious place where very high noblemen were buried when they died. There was one very special building with big steps that we had to climb sideways so that we do not face the preists and do not turn our back to the Gods. This is where people came for worship.

The buildings at Mitla were originally plastered and painted red and white, some surfaces with highly complex symbolic imagery. Imagine yourself standing in the open courtyards of the buildings, with Mixtec nobility wearing elaborate textiles and jewelry standing on the platforms and steps (remember what we saw in the museum), the buildings and sky serving as backdrop. What visual and psychological effect do you think this might create for visitors to the Mixtec city during its heyday?
The visitors might have felt in awe. Not only was it very beautiful, but the sky would make visitors feel very connected to their God. One might feel very small in that place and might understand the urge the people have to pray in the courtyard. It is surprising that the conquistadors had the heart to destroy it.

What do you think about the Spanish building a Catholic church on the foundations of one of the ancient buildings (possibly a religious building), reusing some stones from the ancient site?

At the time, they probably did it to save money, but I like that they did do it because at least those people had a bit of their own past and history still in their life. At the same time, I can see how someone can see it as offensive that the Spanish would use their old bricks meant for something else they considered holy for another thing. Now, that I think about it more... destroying their buildings to replace them with new Spanish buildings is just another form of a total take over. So I can definitely see the offense in that.

Just a Few People We Met

2008-12-30T02:24:00.000-08:00

Journal #1

2008-12-29T20:44:00.000-08:00

Photos from Day 1.
Photos from Day 2 (churches).
Photos from Day 3 (sculptors and carvers).
1) When you decided to go on the Oaxaca program, who were the first people you told about the trip and how did they respond to your plans?

The first people I told was my friend Jaclyn and Yehshen. I told them because Jaclyn is a spanish major and Yehshen is a cool chick. They both sounded really interested, but Jacy decided not to go since it doesn't have any spanish credit and Yehshen said she has to save that money for something else. I mentioned it to Meleah and our friend Christene. Christene is busy working on her singing career or something wild like that. Meleah chose to go to China instead of Oaxaca. They were all excited to go, but because of lack of effeciency of spending (it'd be a waste to spend 5,000 on a trip that doesn't give them what they need for school), they couldn't come.

2) Revisit the discussion question about your first impressions of Oaxaca and your sense of it as a place. You can develop the thoughts you shared with the group or you can use the same comments.

Well, in the group, I said something like "Imagine a big outdoor mall in a big city in America. Only ten times more lively. And instead of everyone being white or mixed, they're all... Mexican." That's basically how I saw Oaxaca in the simplest of terms. In my mind, I was comparing it to Nigeria. I told my Nigerian friend "Oh, its like Nigeria only SO much more colourful! And its cleaner! And safer! And every boy is fiiine, girl." I know this sounds kind of shallow, but that's my FIRST impression of Oaxaca. I was very impressed. Some things I noticed that I thought were cute were the amount of PDA we saw in the park and the many tiny dogs and chihuahuas that people dressed up.

3) We visited the Church of Santo Domingo and the ex-convent, now the Cultural Museum. We also walked through several markets and visited a former convent which is now the Hotel Camino Real. Regarding these places, what 5 characteristics stand out as particularly important in terms of the physical space, the use of these places, and the overall experience? These could be aesthetic, historical, religious, cultural, or other.
These places all had a similar set up. There was a cathedral that was long. At the front was the alter. And in the back, upstairs, was a little deck. And on that back wall was a window which allowed light to come into the cathedral. That light would shine directly onto the alter. The convent and the monastery were connected to the cathedral. The doorways between the two always had the same arch shape. Many of the designs in the church are indicative to the dominican republic, the order of the church that was dominating the area. Also, in all of these churches, you could see elements of the native religion the natives used to believe in. You can tell because of the paintings of the moon and the sun, two important gods of the ancient religion. Also, baby jesus, one of the few things the natives fully accepted is represented in the paintings of baby faces all over the walls and ceilings. With all these hints of attachment to the old religion, you can feel a deep cultural mix when entering the cathedrals. As a Catholic, I am reminded that there are different ways to practice and different traditions even within the Catholic sect of christianity.

4) Which object in the museum was most intriguing or moving to you, and why? Describe the visual qualities of the artwork first; then explain its meaning and function, if known. Do you know if the object was Zapotec or Mixtec?
At the museum, I most liked the section of the wall from the Los Danzantes. I enjoyed that a lot because in the text, the discovers thought the limp limbs meant the figures were dancers, but our tour guide's interpretation was different. She saw it as paintings of different ailments. It is a Zapotec object. The reason this intrigued me the most is because I love the idea of academic debate. Later in highschool, I had come to realize that the textbook is not the end-all-be-all as I had once believed in my early youth. The textbook is written by someone who has studied something or seen something and drew his own conclusions. Someone could argue different conclusions! And getting to hear something that contradicts what the textbook says excites me and reminds me of the battle that goes on in academia. It shows that history can never be for sure. We can never know what really happened.

5) What is your impression of Professor Esther Bonilla so far? What is your favorite Esther moment or story?
So far, I love her. Prof. Esther me recuerda de tia mia. She is very energetic and theatrical which helps makes the history come to life. I have a tendency to get bored very easily. Prof. Esther must talk a lot, but her lecture is more of a performance, so I pay attention better! My favourite moment was the explanation of how mestizos discovered chocolate. (video)

6) Consider your experiences in the hands-on workshops with the potter Valente Nieto Reale in San Bartolo and the wood carvers Jacobo and Maria Angeles and their family in San Martin Tilcajete. What was your experience in the workshops? What struck you as characteristic of their particular art forms?
These were great experiences and people! I enjoyed meeting the artists and their sons and taking photos of their artwork the most! Especially Jacobo! He's was so sweet to me when I interviewed him and he loved my hair. The art forms are very artistic! Some things are simple like a simple cat or dog, and some things have a very good artistic quality. I enjoyed the most the structures that utilized space, making the air around the piece a part of the artwork. Use of curves and angles. For the Reale family, I enjoyed their structures of women and women with children the best. For the Angeles family, I enjoyed the contorted animals the best! They somehow envision the most interesting positions for the animals! And they must have that vision before the carve the wood, which tells me the family is very creative. Also, the painting is done with such detail that I truly admire!

7) How does the life and work of the artist relate to their surroundings?
Para la familia de Reale, it seemed like their surroundings was a lot of dirt and their work comes from exactly that. Dirt. They seem like people who live from the land and all their tools from the bowl, to the carving utensils to the thing that makes it shiny come from the Mother earth. For the Angeles family, you can see their whole home is very colourful and artistic. Likewise, their artwork is colourful and artistic. And many of the animals are someone's birth animal. I'm not sure what you call it, but it reminds me of the Zodiac. Jacobo told me his was the coyote, so I saw some structures of coyote. They also seem to be people who live by the land and so even the colours they use are from the mother nature.

8) At a deep level, how does their way of life differ from your own?
If I was living in Nigeria, their way of life probably wouldn't differ from mine in observation except for the fact that I might be braiding hair or doing house chores or something instead of that kind of art. On a deeper level, I think they would respect the earth and the world a bit more than we would in Nigeria because loving the earth is a part of their tradition and religion. In Nigeria, our religion is catholicism, but in Oaxaca, there seems to be many elements of Zapotec religion which seems more focused on what is on earth than a one and only celestial God. When I am in America, their life is much different. I do not feel much connection with the earth here in America. My artist material comes from a store and is manufactured in a factory whereas these families get their materials from the earth. Family is a very important thing for me (because I am Nigerian), but since my family is in America, we live more like Americans. From time to time we have extended family living with us, but eventually they must live as Americans and have their own house and their own specific and obvious family unit. Here, the families are meshed together. I couldn't tell who was who's wife and who was who's son. Even in-laws are living with the family and working on the craft. There is a lot of simple connections that simply do not exist in America.

Interview with Valente Reale

2008-12-29T20:29:00.000-08:00

Dec. 29
Valente Nieto Reale of San Bartólo Coyotepec

Could you please speak more on how the black clay was/ used for healing?

What the black clay is mostly used for is relieving tonsil ailments. It’s shaped like a tortillas and placed over the tonsils. The tortilla is replaced with every four hours with another fresh one.

How did you go about restoring the nose of the God of Rain artifact in the Cultural Museum?

I looked at the artifacts of the other gods and based my interpretation on them and pictures of the Rain God.

How did you react when approached to make the restoration?

I was not happy with initially, but then I became proud and was very satisfied with what I had done.

How did your family discover the polishing technique?

My parents both signed their pottery when they finished a piece. My father would mark the piece with his rock and write his signature; however my mother was illiterate so she would use a rock to make a unique mark. They noticed what their respective signatures produced a shine from where the rock had worked it and out of curiosity they found out they could make the entire piece look so.

Do you have hopes of the legacy continuing with your descendants?

Yes! All four of my sons work with me and three of my grandchildren!

Interview with Jacobo

2008-12-29T16:05:00.000-08:00

Dec. 29th
Jacobo Angeles Ojeda of San Martín Tilcajete

Q: How old were you when you started?
A: I started at 12 years old. I began to carve with more formality when I was 18. I won my first competition at 21. (... his answer is even longer! Watch the video!)

Q: How many people live here?
A: 14 and they're all family members.

Q: Do in-laws join in?
A: Yes, there are some here participating now.

Q: What's your favourite art to make?
A: The coyote.

Q: What does the coyote mean?
A: Its my birth animal.

Day 1

2008-12-27T23:17:00.000-08:00

Here's our first breath of Oaxaca.

Did you notice while I was filming the costumed fellow, I caught some graffiti? We later learned what exactly that graffiti meant. Its a bit scary.